On Food & Culture
Cornbread is among my formative childhood memories. Amá made it especially for family celebrations, and to make cornbread dressing with pecans and raisins. Corn arrived in Texas around 700 AD, and it was the Caddo civilization in East Texas that cultivated and developed the grain […]
Here’s my twist on the classic Louisiana Gumbo dish. “Cultural Appropriation” this is not. Why? Because I’m naming boundaries and giving them their due. Also, because cooks are always exploring, always re-imagining dishes, and that’s how cuisine evolves. This recipe is long on technique, so […]
Puerco En Chile Colorado is one of the iconic Texas Mexican dishes that is shared with other regions, especially the northern regions of Mexico, each region of course having its slight variations. I grew up with this on our table, whenever we could afford meat, […]
Direct, uncomplicated, profuse flavor. I think oftentimes we miss so much by complicating our everyday, wasting time with artifice. Just look at the beauty of what’s around you, get real, honestly. We roast Anaheim chiles then eat them with hot yellow corn tortilla and salt. […]
This fresh corn skillet, Guisado De Maíz, is all about simplicity and the importance of basic cooking techniques. “Do the basics brilliantly” was the constant mantra of one of my chef instructors at the Culinary Institute of America, Chef Hinnerk Von Bargen. It was also […]
There are certain dishes that remind you of love and comfort. They conjure intimate, loving memories of mother and father and brothers and sisters, and just good times at home. Arroz Con Leche is one of those dishes. It’s comfort food for the soul, and […]
When we first met, some years back, Houston artist, Tony Paraná invited me to a Sunday party at his home, and we made Moqueca Brazil Fish Stew. It is a Northeastern Brazilian seafood dish served in a clay pot. Fish and some shellfish are quickly […]
Chilorio is a specialty of Sinaloa, Mexico. I’m serving it here with Ensalada de Bodas, another specialty of the northern Mexico region. Chilorio is like other carne con chile dishes characteristic of Mexican cuisine in Texas. The Texas Mexican region shares many similar food types […]
Vegetarian Paella is not just a substitute for paella made with seafood and chicken or rabbit. It’s a dish all its own. I love the Paella Valenciana, of course, and for big parties, it’s perfect. If you have to make big amounts, you can put […]
An enchilada feast marked special occasions in our home. To understand the enchilada is to understand our community. This classic Texas Mexican dish is made with Chile Ancho and Chile Pasilla, blended with oregano and other spices. Bottled “chili” powder is a new invention, a […]