Recipes and Essays

Scallops Provencale

Scallops Provencale

A quick, country way to prepare scallops, and throw in vegetables that are lying around.  In this classic recipe, the ingredients are not so strong as to overpower the delicate scallops.  The trio of shallots, garlic and parsley shouts out, “I’m French!” The olive oil 

Salsa de Tomate y Chile Serrano – Fresh Tomato and Serrano Salsa

Salsa de Tomate y Chile Serrano – Fresh Tomato and Serrano Salsa

Three native ingredients make this traditional salsa a delectable culinary heritage:  tomato, chile and salt.  Each provides important nutritional elements, and the combination is, well, fresh and delicious.  There is much to be said for simplicity. Our Texas Indian ancestors used the salt from two 

Fricasé De Pollo, con arroz – Fricasé of Chicken

Fricasé De Pollo, con arroz – Fricasé of Chicken

“Fricasé” is a Boricua dish and also a Plato Cubano. I first learned to make fricasé from a Chicano friend in college who learned it from a Puerto Rican classmate.  There are various Cubano and Puertorriqueño versions, but they all have green olives, and the 

Fettucine with Clams, Shrimp, Chile (Fra Diavolo)

Fettucine with Clams, Shrimp, Chile (Fra Diavolo)

I like to serve fettucine in a huge platter, mixed all together with clams, shrimp and colorful tomato sauce.  It looks delicious and everyone can just dig in and enjoy. Fra Diavolo is the name of a 19th century Italian opera. The name, meaning brother 

Braised Leeks

Braised Leeks

Braised leeks are an elegant accompaniment to roasts.  The goal of braising is to allow time and very low heat to work their twofold magic of softening the leeks and intensifying their flavor. That rich glaze is not achieved with fats (this recipe has no 

Cucumber Chile Martini

Cucumber Chile Martini

We call cucumber, pepino.  This cucumber chile martini draws upon two Mexican flavor traditions.  The first is adding chile to pepino, a combination of freshness and piquant that is gorgeous. The second tradition is making sweets that combine chiles with various fruits. In this “Cucumber 

Paris, Cooking with Chiles at Le Cordon Bleu

Paris, Cooking with Chiles at Le Cordon Bleu

There is a Paris in Texas, but I visited that other one. I was delighted to learn new insights and techniques from Chef Frédéric Lesourd during his class, re-visiting French technique, and doing so while recalling Julia Child a graduate of this world-renowned Parisian school.   

Cognac Shrimp with Beurre Blanc Cream – A Lesson In “Denaturing”

Cognac Shrimp with Beurre Blanc Cream – A Lesson In “Denaturing”

This Cognac Shrimp is a recipe for company dinner.  It says to guests, “unwind, mellow-out, welcome.” In the Beurre Blanc Cream, you taste a brightness, a tang, from the acidic white wine, but the major sensation results from the flavorful creaminess.  I think Harold McGee 

Raspa de Sandía – Watermelon Ice

Raspa de Sandía – Watermelon Ice

For a Summer dinner serve this Watermelon Raspada with blueberries and lime, refreshing and visually beautiful. Watermelons were originally domesticated in central and southern Africa where they served not only as food but as an important water supply dating back 6,000 years.  Through trade routes 

Hearty Tomato Sauce

Hearty Tomato Sauce

I make large batches of this zesty, hearty  tomato sauce and freeze it in plastic bags.  It’s really great for spaghetti, meatballs and especially in baked dishes like eggplant parmigiana and pizzas.  Recipe Ingredients (makes 4 cups) 4 cups Roma tomatoes, canned or fresh 2